A couple of years ago, my husband and I ventured to Spain, exploring the bustling cities of Barcelona, Madrid, and Seville. While we loved those cities’ rich culture, art, and energy, we both agreed that one thing was missing from that trip. We wanted to travel north and ski in the Pyrenees Mountains. Fast-forward to this year, and we finally made it happen! Our destination? Baqueira Beret, a ski resort nestled in the stunning Val d’Aran in the Catalan Pyrenees.
When we arrived, Baqueira Beret felt like a skier’s dream. With over 130 km of slopes spanning various levels and breathtaking mountain views, it’s the place you can lose yourself in—for all the right reasons.
Day 1: Shaky Knees and Stunning Views
The first day on the slopes was a mix of excitement and mild panic. It had been a while since I last skied, and having had knee surgery five months ago, I felt a little wobbly at the start. I put a lot of pressure on my poor knees to regain my balance, but thankfully, the weather was on our side. The sun was shining, the sky was a perfect shade of blue, and the snow conditions couldn’t have been better. The pristine white slopes seemed to stretch endlessly, surrounded by panoramic views of the majestic Pyrenees mountains.
We stuck to the Baquiera area for most of the day, which I later loved for its variety of blue and red runs. For those unfamiliar, European slope ratings classify blues as intermediate and reds as advanced. It’s a fantastic area to warm up and build confidence while soaking in the scenery.
We hit the cafeteria for lunch, and I was genuinely surprised by the quality. Think fresh pasta, juicy burgers, and a variety that puts many North American resorts to shame. It felt more like dining at a proper café than grabbing a quick bite between ski runs.
Day 2: Finding My Groove
By the second day, I had found my rhythm. I finally remembered how to ski, and oh, what a feeling! Flying through the slopes, especially those wide Beret runs, was pure magic. There’s a unique freedom from skiing, as if you’re gliding over the world, leaving all your worries behind with each turn.
The highlight of the day, though, was our lunch at 5 Jotas. If you make it to Baqueira Beret, I can’t recommend this place enough. We started by sampling fresh cheeses and followed it up with pork served three ways. Every bite was packed with flavor and tenderness. Pair that with an incredible glass of Spanish red wine, and it was a meal worth savoring.
Unfortunately, the day wasn’t without its mishaps. I had a small tumble coming off a slope and twisted my knee, pulling my groin in the process. We decided to take the next day off to recover. It was disappointing to sit out, but safety first.
Day 3: Exploring Picture-Perfect Villages
With my knee still recovering, we took a break from skiing on Day 3 and explored the enchanting villages surrounding Baqueira Beret. This was one of the most memorable parts of our trip. We visited Salardú, Arties, and Vielha, each offering its unique charm and a sense of stepping back in time.
Our first stop was Salardú, a quaint little village that felt straight out of a storybook. The highlight here was its medieval church, Sant Andreu, which boasts intricate Romanesque architecture and stunning frescoes. Walking through its cobblestone streets, I half-expected Belle from Beauty and the Beast to step out and break into a song. It truly had that small-town, fairytale vibe.
Next, we headed to Arties, which might have been my favorite. This village radiates history and character with its beautifully preserved stone buildings and picturesque riverside setting. There, we stumbled upon another medieval church, Santa Maria d’Arties, with its stunning bell tower that felt like a portal to another era.
For lunch, we made our way to Vielha. The capital of the Val d’Aran region, Vielha was bustling yet retained that old-world charm. We found a cozy little restaurant in the heart of the village, where we enjoyed hearty Catalan dishes that were perfect for fueling our adventure. Afterward, we wandered through the town’s narrow streets, poking into charming shops offering everything from handmade crafts to local foods.
The medieval villages were like stepping into another world—with their historic architecture, tranquil atmosphere, and rich cultural vibes, they added a new dimension to our mountain getaway. If you’re visiting Baqueira Beret, I highly recommend taking a day to explore these magical little gems. It’s a beautiful way to experience the heart of the Pyrenees, beyond the ski slopes.
Day 4: Exploring and Mishaps
On the fourth day, we started exploring the mountain earlier. Baqueira Beret’s beauty is that almost everything is skiable. The terrain is so open and vast that it often feels like you’re gliding across an untouched moonscape of endless white. It was everything we had hoped it would be.
That said, warmer conditions made the snow softer and slushy, slowing us down quite a bit. Despite the slower pace, we pushed on and discovered more incredible runs. Unfortunately, my streak of bad luck continued. I had a hard fall, banging my head and twisting my knee again. I finally got myself up with my husband’s help, and we skied to the bottom. At the infirmary, we were taken back to the lodge, where a kind staff member helped us return to our hotel. While it wasn’t the ideal way to end the day, the care and professionalism of the staff reminded me why this resort is so special.
Why Baqueira Beret is a Must-Visit
Despite my bumps and bruises, our trip to Baqueira Beret was unforgettable, and I’d go back in a heartbeat. Here’s what makes it stand out:
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Slopes for Everyone: With 130 km of skiable terrain, you’ll find all levels here—from beginner greens to advanced reds and expert blacks. The Beret area is ideal if you’re looking for intermediate-level challenges.
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Gourmet Dining: Forget greasy burgers and sub-par cafeteria food. Baqueira Beret offers dining options rival top-tier mountain restaurants, from fresh pasta dishes to fine wine and authentic Spanish cuisine. 5 Jotas was the culinary highlight of our trip. (They even had a Moet Champagne bar serving tapas and sushi. We had planned to go there on day 4 before my fall.)
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Stunning Scenery: The Val d’Aran’s breathtaking beauty is like something out of a postcard. Whether you’re skiing under blue skies or surrounded by milky-white snowfields, every moment feels surreal.
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Top-Notch Facilities: The resort’s organization and amenities stand out. From convenient equipment rentals to excellent ski patrol services, everything is designed to ensure you have an amazing time.
Even with some stumbles and injuries, I couldn’t have been happier. Skiing the Pyrenees Mountains, feeling free as I glided down the slopes, and experiencing the charm of Baqueira Beret made it all worth it. If you’re a mountain lover or skiing enthusiast, add Baqueira Beret to your bucket list. Trust me, it’s an adventure you won’t forget.
