Our recent adventure in the Pyrenees wasn’t just about skiing and exploring medieval villages; it was also a feast for the senses, thanks to the region’s beautiful and varied dining options. From Michelin-starred establishments to unexpected gems, our meals added an exciting layer to our trip. Of course, not every experience was perfect, but that’s part of the story. Here’s a look at where we dined, what we loved, and what we wouldn’t recommend.
Es Arraitzes Restaurant in Garòs
We started our culinary tour on Sunday with a dinner at Es Arraitzes in the charming village of Garòs. This Michelin-starred restaurant was everything we could have hoped for. The village itself felt like something straight out of a fairytale, with its stone-built medieval architecture reminding me of Belle’s hometown from Beauty and the Beast.
The restaurant had an intimate and elegant atmosphere, and despite the slight language barrier, the staff was warm and accommodating. We decided to order a variety of tapas, and each dish was a delight. The standouts included the pork gyoza, tuna tataki, and deliciously crispy cheese croquettes.
For the main course, I opted for an incredible rice/pasta dish topped with a perfectly cooked egg and plump shrimp, while my husband enjoyed a tender beef dish. But the real star came at the end of the meal with their Spanish cheesecake. Creamy and rich, it was easily one of the best desserts I’ve ever had. Overall, this was one of our most memorable dining experiences and a must-visit.
4Valles at AC Hotel Baqueira
The following night, Monday, was… well, less impressive. We dined at 4Valles, the in-house restaurant at AC Hotel Baqueira. The service was satisfactory, but unfortunately, the food didn’t live up to the rest of our experience in the Pyrenees.
We started with a potato appetizer and an onion soup, which wasn’t the classic French style you might expect. It felt off—not what we were hoping for. For my main, I ordered trout and specifically asked if it was a fillet or a whole fish. I was reassured it would be a fillet, but it was indeed the whole fish when it arrived. While the waiter filleted it tableside, there were still too many bones, which completely threw me off. My husband’s meal fared no better. Unfortunately, we left underwhelmed and wouldn’t recommend this spot.
HINCHA at MIM Baqueira
Tuesday brought a welcomed return to delicious dining. We ate at HINCHA, another Michelin-starred gem at MIM Baqueira. This meal perfectly balanced sophistication with comfort.
We kept it simple with a pizza and pasta stuffed with pork, but simplicity doesn’t mean ordinary. Every bite was flavorful, and the meal was so satisfying that it completely wiped away the disappointment from the night before.
Fandango in Salardú
Tuesday night was an unexpected adventure. We had a reservation at Vermont in Salardú, but when we arrived, they insisted we had the wrong time and told us to return at 8 p.m. It was frustrating, especially since our hotel had booked it for us. Instead, we made our way to Fandango, which was a blessing in disguise.
Fandango greeted us warmly, letting us in early for a pre-dinner drink. The evening unfolded beautifully from there. We started with fresh oysters and ham and cheese croquettes, which were excellent. I had filet mignon cooked perfectly for the main course, and my husband enjoyed a succulent duck breast. The flavors were so rich and satisfying. We finished with another piece of Spanish cheesecake, which didn’t disappoint again. Fandango truly turned our evening around, and I’d highly recommend it.
Parador d’Arties in Arties
Thursday night brought us back to Arties, where we dined at the Parador d’Arties. We started with a cheese board and a lovely glass of red wine. The cheese selection was delightful, offering us a taste of local flavors.
However, the mains were a bit of a disappointment. My husband ordered lamb chops, and I went with cod. Both dishes looked promising, but sadly, the flavors didn’t live up to the presentation. It wasn’t a terrible meal, but not one we’d go out of our way to repeat.
Final Thoughts and Recommendations
Dining in the Pyrenees was an adventure, full of highs and a couple of lows. If you’re planning a trip, here are my recommendations for a flavorful experience:
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Must-Visit Restaurants:
- Es Arraitzes in Garòs for an unforgettable Michelin-starred meal in a storybook village.
- HINCHA at MIM Baqueira for refined comfort food that hits all the right notes.
- Fandango in Salardú for a fantastic dinner with impeccable flavors and hospitality.
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Skip These:
- 4Valles at AC Hotel Baqueira if you’re looking for memorable food. However, the food left a lot to be desired.
- Parador d’Arties for mains, though the cheese board and wine were great starters.
The Pyrenees are full of culinary treasures (and a few missteps), but our incredible meals far outweighed the disappointing ones. This region pairs stunning mountain landscapes with delicious food, making any dining adventure here worth it. If you go, don’t forget to try the Spanish cheesecake. Trust me, it’s life-changing!
